There are those who say that airports are all the same; that travel has become standardized and sterilized.
This view holds that airports exist merely to take passengers from one place to another, and that “real” travel begins only when you leave the terminal.
That’s one way to think of it. Another way is to embrace airports as a travel experience all on their own. An airport begins, continues, or ends a journey.
Besides, if you love travel, it’s hard to hate airports. It’s kind of like trying to be healthy while hating exercise… probably not the best idea. If you want to be healthy, better to make your peace with exercise somehow, and if you want to be a traveler, better to make your peace with airports.
When I speak to travel groups, I always open with an “airport code challenge.” Here’s an example: how many of these airports can you name?
ATL // YYZ // MUC // KIX // PNH // BJM // WLG // PVG
(Answers at the bottom of the post. Airport memories are below.)
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Around the World
I liked the fact that ULN is known as the “Genghis Khan International Airport”—until I realized that almost everything in Mongolia is named after Genghis Khan. I remember doing pushups late at night in the corner, waiting to fly back to Korea. Genghis was also kind enough to provide free WiFi.
The most overrated U.S. airport is DEN. Apologies to everyone who thinks it deserves its accolades, but I think of Denver like I think of Southwest Airlines: if I didn’t actually travel very often or to many places, I might be impressed. In the case of DEN, it’s great if you’re not vegetarian, if you don’t mind “free” WiFi that works half the time and installs a bar with ads above your browser, and you’re not actually trying to get to the city that shares the airport’s name. But I digress.
Alternatively, there are some surprisingly decent airports in unexpected parts of the world: CMB, for example, which is also a good place to begin a RTW ticket. In EBL they have free WiFi and comfy chairs. But then they took every single thing out of my bag during an extended security check, and confiscated my AA batteries. Lesson: no batteries allowed on flights out of Iraq.
In ICN they give you slippers to wear through the x-ray machine. So courteous and comfy! Asia does hospitality right, even with airport security. And free showers? How kind—but bring your own towel.
In MDW (the non-ORD Chicago airport) they have a place known as “Euro Cafe”. When I went there I wondered if anyone associated with the cafe had ever been to Europe. There are no chairs to sit, only bad filter coffee available, and no one was chain-smoking. (I guess “Amero Cafe” doesn’t have the same ring to it as “Euro Cafe.”)
I found RNO airport to be like Reno the city—a quirky little place with far more slot machines than people. But the restaurant had a good veggie burger, and they gave me free club soda. I have no plans to return, but if I do, I’ll know where to go for lunch.
In the land of paradise, MLE isn’t the best place to be stuck eight hours through the middle of the night. Hard plastic chairs. No WiFi. Misconnect on the flight from Singapore the next day. Lesson: when visiting paradise, be prepared to spend an extra day. If the $800 hotel rooms aren’t enough, think of the sleepless night as an additional tax.
In North Africa, CMN alternates between two temperatures: oven and freezing. The oven section apparently pipes in the Morroccon desert from outdoors; the air conditioning in the freezer section comes from Antarctica. For the best experience, start off in the oven area and then transfer to the freezer. Be sure you stay in the freezer long enough to be thoroughly chilled, because then you’ll move back to the oven and become somewhat acclimatized.
In LHR the high-security password for WiFi in British Airways Executive Clubs is “executiveclub.” Next door at the SAS lounge, the password is “SAS.” There are British Airways and SAS lounges in many airports around the world, which leads to another good lesson: whenever you need free internet, find a lounge, explore the possibilities of camping outside, and type in the name of the lounge in your best WikiLeaks move.
Also, the password for the “VIP lounge” in SID is password, a fact I thoroughly enjoyed upon discovering it. But alas—the network doesn’t work, or at least it didn’t when I was there. I guess the joke was on me.
Airport Sleeping
Sleeping on the floor of the airport is partly a question of economics, and partly a question of mere travel survival. You may not always know when you’ll be called upon to do it, but when you do know in advance, my recommended strategy is to prepare by carefully stocking up on blankets and pillows from the previous flight(s).
It helps to be in Business Class, because there will usually be a blanket and pillow. Good Business Class blankets must also be easy to borrow, however—some are so nice and fluffy that they are difficult to take off the plane without looking like an overconfident shoplifter. In these cases, a basic Economy Class blanket will suffice.
When you awake after a troubled sleep, hopefully not interrupted by police or third-shift cleaners, fold up any acquired blankets and leave them for the next weary traveler.
Security
What can be said about the TSA in America? I have mixed feelings. On the one hand, many of them are nice, friendly, and even occassionally in good spirits. They are indeed “just doing their job” as the saying goes, so I try to be polite. On the other hand, some agents are on a power trip to intimidate travelers.
A few U.S. airports (SFO is the largest) are actually operated by private security that has entirely different rules than TSA-operated airports. When you ask why the rules are different from LAX or any other airport, you’re told “This is the way it is throughout the whole country.” No, it’s actually not—but that’s OK. Better to keep moving along and not protest too much.
I used to collect spoons from airlines around the world—but then I ran out of airlines. So I thought, maybe I’ll collect other kinds of silverware to compliment the spoon collection. I dutifully swiped a Virgin Atlantic fork on a flight to South Africa, but on my connecting flight out off JNB, they kept running my bag through the security machine over and over. Finally someone turned to me. “Sir, is there a fork in your bag?”
I had completely forgotten about it. A fork? What kind of idiot would pack a fork in his carry-on bag? Obviously not me. Then we opened the bag and found the fork. Oops. Since I already have spoons from twenty-five airlines, there won’t be any further silverware collections.
Earlier this year I went on a tour of Canada and visited many airports large and small, all starting with Y. Canadian airport security is much like the U.S.: different rules applied differently in different airports, but when you ask about the discrepancy, you’re told it’s all the same, there is no difference, you must be imagining things—as if you have no firsthand knowledge of the way it was yesterday in another airport.
They’re friendly enough about it, though, and after running the x-ray gauntlet, you can always look forward to a visit to the donut shop. This is because in addition to beginning all their airports with the letter Y, Canadian law also mandates that several Tim Hortons be strategically placed throughout every airport, no matter how small. And thank God for federalism! I do love a box of Timbits.
Lounges
Many years ago I traveled homeward through CDG on an upgraded ticket and was given complimentary access to the Air France Business Lounge. Free croissants! Free coffee! Free vodka (although at 6am, I stuck to the coffee). This first lounge set a dangerous precedent—from then on, I was obsessed with getting lounge access, no matter the quality of the amenities inside. In KBL, for example, there is a regular seating area disguised as a Business Lounge—anyone can go in and sit, but there is nothing for the people inside. Weird.
Years later, the lounge obsession led to a more specific quest to gain access to the best airport lounges anywhere. FRA is an interesting place because travel is so segregated—it’s a notoriously unenjoyable airport to travel in Economy or even Business Class. But if you travel First Class, well, the story is much different. You get an entire terminal devoted to you, a chauffered car to drive you to your gate, and even a free rubber ducky in the spa room of the lounge. I didn’t get the duck when I was there, so of course I’m going back.
In HKG you can visit The Wing, which includes free bathtub suites. In ZRH you can have a drink from the longest airport bar in the world. In LHR you can visit the Virgin Atlantic Clubhouse and get your hair cut where Richard Branson does… or so I’ve heard.
These are the holy grail of airport lounges. If you are able to sneak into a lounge like this, you should skip your flight and stay there all day. You also deserve to start your own Travel Hacking Cartel.
***
For the right airport, I show up four hours early. And in my strange attachment to forward motion (always keep moving!), sometimes I’ll show up four hours early even for a random airport. I love them.
What’s your favorite airport?
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P.S. Here are answers to the airport code challenge:
ATL = Atlanta (no points for getting that one)
YYZ = Toronto
MUC = Munich
KIX = Osaka
PNH = Phnom Penh
BJM = Bujumbura
WLG = Wellington
PVG = Shanghai
Image: RML
March 3, 2011
Wyman
My most memorable airport was American Soma. Open folly with a foot of water everywhere during a big rain. The trash can said “wubbish”. Everyone you know comes to see you off and puts shell necklaces on you and cries, even if you are coming back next week. Great people.
March 3, 2011
Lorraine
I also LOVE airports. Favorite lounge so far is the DOH (Doha, Qatar). The First Class Lounge was in a separate building for First Class passengers. Lounge was like a lovely restaurant!! Fabulous buffet, free Wi-Fi.
Lorraine
March 3, 2011
Diana
I knew Toronto and Munich really because I’ve flown in and out of them. This may be TMI but I carry powdered soluble fiber with me for digestive issues. When I flew into Munich to connect to Tirana, the Germans pulled out my white powder that I put in a mini tupperware (I kept the packaging with the name just in case) and just stared at it, at me and then at each other. I said, “Oh it’s fiber!!” They seemed skeptical but let me go. They probably thought that I would have a lot of guts to bring any other kind of powder through an airport! I took the risk, figuring it would be okay.
March 3, 2011
Joe
Sea-Tac is great. Free Wi-Fi, the central terminal is a nice open area near all the restaurants with large floor to ceiling windows with a great view of the runway…plus an Ivar’s!
March 3, 2011
connie b
Hey Chris, This is a very funny post; do more humor. I’ve made my peace with airports because I travel a lot, but like them? Never. However, my favorite airport is Koh Samui in Thailand. You walk off the plane and get into a Disney looking little brightly colored chain of cars and chug off to baggage claim. The restaurant, bar, baggage area are all outdoors in little buildings with thatched roofs. What a welcome and clear message that this place is different! I like this airport because it doesn’t look or feel anything like an airport
March 3, 2011
GutsyWriter
Did you read Alain de Botton’s book as writer in residence at LHR Terminal 5. That is a job I’d love to do. He basically interviewed passengers at Heathrow and wrote a book. One thing he said, is travelers are far more open to telling you their dirty secrets. One guy flew from LAX to LHR monthly, as he had two separate families and kids in each city who were unaware that he had another family across the ocean. That would be a cool job to do at the airport.
March 3, 2011
Jeanne M.
What a fun post! And reading the comments too. I just wish I knew what all the acronyms stood for. I’ve flown a bit but nothing stands out that much but I find airports fun because they’re like little cities. Years ago, just hanging out at the airport to watch the people and the planes coming and going was great fun also, better than going to the mall. I have had occasion to be stuck in an airport for bad weather and all the mayhem and although not fun, not boring either. About 15 years ago went through an airport in southern US maybe in North Carolina which was the size of a postage stamp and they looked at the bottle of water (which I had just purchased at their store) like it was poison and made me open it and take a sip. Guess they didn’t like the looks of this Yankee!
March 3, 2011
Daniel Mick
Oh, and Chris, where’s the love for our homebase PDX?! It’s a great and beautiful well-planned. And how many cities are regularly known by their airport code? Yay Portland!
March 3, 2011
Gene Jennings
SIN (Singapore) for three reasons:
1. It’s just plain cool.
2. It has a SWIMMING POOL!
3. I’m a pastor and I like telling people that I am in SIN.
March 3, 2011
Brett
PDX (Portland) and SEA (Seattle) are my favorite. I fly from these airports most often and find them to be comfortable and pleasant to travel through. I love the large central areas to watch airplanes land and take off. A big plus is that security in both airports know how to work with families.
March 3, 2011
Jennifer Blair
After dealing with the monster that is LAX for the sixteen years I lived there, I have fallen in love with my current home town airport. Nashville (BNA). They have stages set up in the terminals so passengers are greeted with music, the universal language.
They also provide comfy lounge seats behind a glass wall for loved ones waiting for arrivals.
Outside, they have timed 15 min parking spots for pick ups and a free cell phone parking area as well.
And no more hour long security lines.
Heaven.
I’ll be there Monday for a trip to SJO via MIA.
March 3, 2011
Randi
My favorite airport is the one from my home town of Sioux City, Iowa. Airport designation? SUX. No lie.
March 4, 2011
Joe Le Merou
I love airports too !
I think the best one for me is Changi (Singapore).
The worst would be Charles De gaulle (Paris), i’m sure everyone agrees on this…
March 4, 2011
RILEY HARRISON
I love to travel despite airports. Lounges are the lifesaver for me. In contrast I love railroad stations and don’t mind bus depots.
Riley
March 4, 2011
michael
The US airport landscape is pretty bleak compared to Europe. I guess if I had to name a fav it would be DET. Nice architecture, and the last time I was there, you could still smoke in the bar, so that gives it a certain European flair.
In Europe, the architecture at CDG is amazing as long as it’s not collapsing. AMS is probably the coziest on the continent with a wide variety of seating arrangments, including little living room-type areas for small groups or families.
MUC is teutonic beauty on full display. Walking out into that breathtaking plaza after an overnight from the US is my favorite way to be welcomed to Germany.
Sadly my very favorite airport in the world – TXL – will close soon. It’s very small, and everyone checks in at the gate. Security is also directly at the gate. There is always free good coffee and a plentiful selections of international publications. After deplaning, passengers walk only a few steps to the baggage carousel. Unparalleled convenience
March 4, 2011
Andre
FRA is a definite for First Class, otherwise my vote is on SIN without hesitation. Great article! Thanks
March 4, 2011
Andi of My Beautiful Adventures
I loved the airport on Easter Island! Who would have thought the most remote island in the world would have had free wifi!
March 4, 2011
Elina
My favourite airport so far has been PVG. I love the way it’s been built so that all the usual airport background noise just disappears… And customer service there rocks!
The worst, no competition here, SVO. 10hr wait there was a nightmare… We were supposed to get a free meal from the airline but by the time we arrived they were out of food. They managed to get some cold soup at some point – hurray…
Overall, I love airports. They’re the best part of travelling! Much better than the long flights…
March 4, 2011
mary s
When I lived in Fla, I did a lot of traveling thru Tampa Airport. Very easy to go into and out of-love the tram! Looking out the tram window and seeing palm trees, I knew I was home!
March 4, 2011
Benny
I love airports! When I’m traveling I don’t get excited about the destination first but the experience of being in an airport. I love seeing people going to all different destinations. I love knowing in a few hours or twelve hours I could be in a far off city or completely different country.
Jetblue’s terminal at JFK is really nice.
Like Seoul’s airport
March 4, 2011
Sarah
Love the Timmies shout out! You’re practically Canadian now!
March 5, 2011
Brian
I collect forks and once swiped a fork on a Virgin Altlantic flight out of South Africa. It was plastic and not metal so it was never confiscated by security but I put it in my checked luggage on the flight back to South Africa and the baggage handlers manage to break it into multiple pieces. Looks like we’re not meant to swipe forks on Virgin Atlantic flights.
March 5, 2011
Stanley Lee
Chris,
Fun post to read. Speaking of which, I would have been at least 5 different airports on the trip I revealed to you during your UBT stop (may include a 6th stop as well): YVR, HKG, PVG, NGB, CAN, and maybe PEK).
Stanley
March 5, 2011
Estella
I spent an entire week, day and night, at LHR this past December when the whole place shut down for several days, and all the flights got backed up due to combined bad weather and Christmas travel. No one was allowed beyond security during the whole time, so there wasn’t much in terms of comfort or hospitality. Needless to say, it doesn’t hold the most savory place on my personal-experience-at-airport-list, but being that it is the easiest one for me to reach in London, and is one of the largest gateways to the world, I don’t dislike it! I will always adore airports and their unique atmosphere, and will do almost anything to spend a little time in them… just maybe not THAT much!!
March 5, 2011
Iris M. Gross
What a fun post! Resonated with lots of people. I’ve only been to about 7 airports: SFO, OKC, BOS, CVG, ORD, LGA, and whatever Reagan National is. Love reading everybody’s posts about airports. I hate that you can’t go to the airport and watch planes take off and land like you used to be able to. I remember once as kids my brother and I drove down to our airport in OKC and watched the British Concord fly in, and then we went in to the gate where it was parked and got to ogle it for a good hour! Couldn’t possibly do that nowadays. But I did want to mention one thing that nobody’s touched on: control tower design! I think Boston Logan’s control tower is the neatest I’ve ever seen, but then I haven’t seen all that many of them yet! Great post guys!
March 6, 2011
Gunja
Great post Chris!.specially the tips n tricks..and the fork incident really cracked me!
for me, the Chattrapati Shivaji International Airport in mumbai holds a place really close to my heart…it was the year mumbai was flooded in monsoon..we had an early morning flight and when we reached the airport, it was only drizzling.But soon the drizzles changed to massive downpour flooding the entire city.All flights were cancelled,so were every form of transport.The sound of the incessant thunder and rains,water everywhere,in the airfield, the giant aeroplanes getting drenched with their wheels all submerged..it was really scary, yet uniquely beautiful, in its own way.we were stuck in the airport for over 24 hours- we ate from the airport canteen and slept on the floor with hundreds of other commuters.we even befriended an old lady who was staying in the airport for the past three days,waiting to be picked up by her son,who never arrived…it was an experience I would never ever forget
March 7, 2011
michael hewstone
Nice article … got to tell you my favorite airport is Singapore. Why, cause I know I can hop on a train and go down to Little India and sit in an open air cafe and have myself a nice cold Kingfisher [Indian beer]. It gets better. When I’m back at the airport I can have a shower, a nap and a nice vegetarian dosa. And the best part of being at Singapore airport is I know I’m only 4 odd hours away from my favorite place on this beautiful planet … India!
May peace and love travel with you always, michael.
March 8, 2011
Kelly Knights
I love AKL for the last minute gift Kiwiana gift shopping, HKG for extended layovers (food! beer! shopping! showers — a def plus after a 15-hour flight!!). Im also a fan of SIN — watching the sun rise a massive red ball of fire on my way to BKK, I actually stopped in my tracks and said “you’ve got to be kidding me!”. It was pretty amazing.
Being a Toronto girl, I have to stand up for our airport: YYZ is one of the busiest airports in North America, so a little bit of chaos is par for the course. It’s easily accessible by the TTC (despite popular mythology to the contrary), and if you give yourself enough time to get yourself sorted, I’ve never had a problem with lines or waiting. Personally, I get a flurry of excitement whenever I go past Pearson, even if Im not even going to the airport! LOVE IT.
March 11, 2011
julie
Rating airports throughout the world (including military airports)….SeaTac (SEA), Seattle is the absolute best, most convenient, cleanest, best wi-fi, appropriate security, etc.
Absolute worst? LAX (I’ve been there dozens of times, so this is a fair enough critique) — in my opinion, it is far worse than airports in many “third world countries.” As one of the ‘gateways’ into the U.S., you’d think L.A. could spring for some new carpeting that is from this decade…or at least last decade? (1970s carpet with the stench of cig smoke, so many stains and signs that it has obviously been cleaned VERY rarey just doesn’t reflect “USA” to me….but I guess it DOES reflect L.A. …..) — no wi-fi…not even the opportunity to pay for it … needing to SHUTTLE between terminals … 150 people fighting for ONE power outlet to charge the cellphone or computer (some of us are wise enough to bring their own mi-fi source) per terminal is ridiculous.
And the food options are nil.